Even though you can use cold process, oven process soap right away, I would always recommend letting it cure for a few weeks so that you get a nice hard bar. HPOP: Hot Process Oven Process. Stearic and palmitic soaps salt-out quickly and well so they become concentrated in the solid soap crystals. A harder bar will last longer allowing you to enjoy it longer. Cold Process Oven Process (CPOP) is one of the best ways to force your soap to gel. Homemade soap usually needs to cure for a month before you can use it—longer if you want a nice hard bar of soap that will last. A bar of soap is a complex mixture of solid crystals entirely surrounded by a film of liquid. This is a process that most people can't see or measure, so they tend to ignore or discount this as not being important. Keep good written notes as you go -- do not count on your memory to be accurate. The water content in the soap might be 50% to 70% of the water originally in the soap bars when they were cut. I've been making only HP soap b/c of the quick turnaround - it works better for my space situation. CPOP stands for cold process/oven process. Many soapmakers use a process called cold processes oven process (CPOP) to force their soap to gel in the oven. The oven temperature setting to dry items in an oven is 180-200 ºF/82-93ºC, which is just below the boiling point of water. I know of no easy shortcuts -- handcrafted soap needs at least 4-8 weeks of cure to perform well and some will benefit from even more time. If you create a graph that tracks these weights with time, you will most likely see a trend something like the chart below. I turn my oven on to warm (your want it to be about 170-180 degrees F. I made my soap as usual. Anyone who has eagerly bathed with a freshly cut bar of soap and gotten some skin irritation has learned that lesson. 3. Want to see some behind the scenes? After twenty minutes, take mixture out of the oven and stir with wire whisk. The liquid in a bar of soap is just as important to the overall performance of the soap as are the crystals of solid soap. Remember from the CPOP post that according to Professor … Any soap, whether HP or CP, will be at its best only after completing the other two aspects of cure -- the loss of excess moisture and development of crystalline structure. Soap does not have to come to trace. It makes a moisturizing yet cleansing bar with tons of lather. So why does soap need to cure anyway? Be sure you are using heatproof molds, like silicone. Dilution can modify harshness -- more water in the diluted soap will reduce the cleansing action. Step Nine: When gel stage is complete, remove the soap from your oven and allow to cool. Using a baking sheet may increase the drying time by up to double. It involves placing the molded soap into the oven at about 150-170 degrees until the soap fully gels. In summary, the hot process method only speeds saponification; HP does not shortcut the rest of the cure time. We all desire a hard bar of soap. Place your soaps in an out-of-the-way place to cure. Additives This difference between the liquid and solid phases affects how the soap performs at the sink or in the bath. It lathered very poorly at 2 weeks and only a little bit better at 5-6 weeks. Handcrafted soap may be SAFE to use shortly after it is made, but it will not be at its BEST until some weeks or even months go by. https://www.rachaelraymag.com/recipe/how-to-dry-citrus-in-the-oven Repeated tests of lathering, hardness, longevity, and mildness have proven this point to me. A "cure" time for liquid soap is mainly to allow time for the last bits of saponification to finish and allow any particles that might be in the soap to sequester (settle out). Heat your oven to 170-180°f, then turn it … Hot Process Soap Versus Cold Process Soap, How to Make Lotion Sticks & Homemade Lip Balm, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_FpufPu-5yk, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=991_GNVPVA4&t=738s, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uuSLJkVcyVs. Not every kind of soap molecule will salt-out to the same degree. Steps To Use Dish Soap To Clean Oven #1. I love the process of making soap, but what I love even more is developing recipes for it. Dry the skillet thoroughly, and then follow the above curing technique, repeating at least 3 to 5 times. Thanks for tuning in today. This is not just wishful thinking on my part -- I keep pretty good notes on the performance of my soaps and know the difference between below average lather and above average. The high concentration of glycerin and other water-soluble chemicals in an older bar of handcrafted soap has an unexpected effect. If the cure was only about water evaporation, we should see little or no change in these soap qualities. Are there other ways to force this shift in the crystal structure and the liquid phase? It arguably can take months for this migration to stabilize in a handcrafted bar of soap. Depending on the space you have to work with, you can use a bookshelf, utility shelf, bakers rack, or whatever you have that will fit your space. After one hour, turn off the oven and leave the pan in the oven to cool completely. Layers of paper towels in between soaps only make the moisture problem worse. I turn my oven off and put my soap inside the warm oven and leave it over night. Castile soaps or any other soap made with high amounts of olive oil benefit from an even longer cure. When the pan is cool, wipe away any excess oil with a paper towel. Try a long-term experiment with a few bars of your favorite freshly-made soap. There are tons of different methods for making soap and over the years I have decided that this way works best for me because it’s quick, easy and I don’t need to measure any temperatures. Copyright © 2002-2020 - All rights reserved by Classic Bells Ltd. of curing soap is developing soap's crystalline structure. I’ve used it quite a lot. What are the individual soap molecules like? And that, in not a nutshell, is why curing soap is a complex process that goes beyond water evaporation. Over time, the excess liquid in the soap evaporates, the bar hardens and becomes milder. Initial weight - Oven - dry weight MC - x 100% (2) Oven - dry weight I added a very small fridge on the floor and all my oils sit on it so I still manage to keep the counter relatively clear for soaping and a rarely used room is used all the time now. from North Country Soap Making Library. As more soap molecules accumulate on your skin or washcloth, they will build a larger amount of lather. The weight of the water is the difference in the weight of the piece before and after drying. In my experience, however, soap made with a more balanced blend of fats should perform decently well after a 4-8 week cure, with a more gradual improvement after that time. Myristic and lauric and oleic soaps do not salt-out nearly as easily, so they remain in the liquid phase. My first real-life experience with the benefits of a longer cure was a soap made with 90% lard. The oven folds to the size of a stadium cushion and weighs in at 1.2 pounds. Using the oven. The first aspect of cure is to complete the last lingering bits of saponification to ensure the soap is safe to use on the skin. How does this salting-out affect the structure of the soap? For handcrafted soap makers, the most practical solution is to allow time to solve the problem -- time to finish saponifying, to evaporate water, and to develop the crystal structure. Salting-out is the process by which soap molecules coalesce from a liquid form into solid soap crystals. Technically the method I show in this video would probably be called Room Temperature/Oven … Learn how your comment data is processed. After you make soap for a while, you'll be able to compare a bar that has cured for several months with one that has just cured a couple of weeks and quickly tell the difference between the two. An oleic soap molecule is the same overall length as stearic soap, but it contains a double carbon bond that twists the oleic soap molecule into a "U" shape. It is true the HP "cook" causes the soap to fully saponify within a few hours. When you are finished creating your cold process soap and have it safely in the mold, you can put it in a warm oven to force the gel stage. Each has its own benefits, but when you combine the processes, you reap the benefits from both. I discarded my oven rack for curing and now I use the rack in the closet for curing soaps (a wire rack: perfect). Some soap makers allow for this by curing CP soap a minimum of 4 weeks and HP soap a minimum of 6 weeks. This cold process soap recipe is the best ever. Ingredients Needed: 13.5oz Distilled Water 9oz Sodium Hydroxide 40.6 oz Olive Oil (pomace grade or extra virgin will both work.) The cure time is all about water evaporation. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. The fatty acids usually come from fats. When a batch of soap is made from fat, the soap molecules within the soap will vary in size and shape, depending on the different fatty acids present. Using the oven. After 4-8 weeks has gone by, the rate of water loss from a bar of soap will slow to a crawl (see the chart above.) Check it regularly to make sure it is not feeling sticky or damp – if it does, it needs to sit out and cure longer. A few days should be long enough for a properly made soap to finish saponifying. Palmitic acid is medium length and the soap it makes is moderately soluble in water. Now is a good time to send them to us. These soap molecules also gradually trade places with lauric, myristic, and oleic soaps in existing crystals. Cold processed soaps need time to cure and age before they can be labeled and soap. After soap is in the mold, the process of saponification can cause the soap to heat up. I have to say, once you start soaping, it is hard to stop. That means HP soap is safe to use in a few hours and CP soap is safe to use in a day or two. Instead, stir mixture with a wire whisk until opaque and place in a 225 degree preheated oven. This method of using hot process calls for heat being applied while the soap spends time in the oven. Liquid soap doesn't have a solid crystalline structure, and it doesn't need to dry. Glycerin, along with table salt and certain other chemicals, has the ability to "salt out" soap when the concentration becomes high enough. With careful control of the drying and plodding steps, the soap will form the desired crystal structure. Since HP soap is usually made with more water than CP soap, the drying time for HP soaps actually takes more time, not less, before the soap stabilizes at a reasonably constant weight. Temperatures of over 200 degrees Fahrenheit can be reached in order to bake, roast, or dry a wide variety of food items. At 4-8 weeks, it is true that most soap lathers better, lasts longer, and is milder to the skin, but soap often performs better as even more time goes on. In this video, I am sharing with you tips and tricks to decreasing curing time on cold processed soaps. High oleic soaps (olive oil soap for example) also need a longer cure time for best performance. It will usually take 3 or 4 weeks for soap to cure. The glycerin and other water soluble chemicals will be more concentrated as the water content drops. Crystals can be big or small, long or chunky. The Sunflair Solar will float if it were to fall into water. But neither of these soaps will be at their best if used so young -- they will not lather as much, be as physically hard, or last as long as they will after a full cure. Layering paper towels. The larger amount of less-soluble soap in the soap crystals has the benefit of making the soap more resistant to wearing away from use. Every oil brings its own properties to a bar of soap, and finding the perfect soap recipe is a balance of those things. … Any given fat is a blend of several kinds of fatty acids. Let's get iNaturalBody! After soap is in the mold, the process of saponification can cause the soap to heat up. Basically, CPOP is forcing a hot, extended gel phase with the help of an oven. Once that starts to happen, I turn my oven off and let to soap sit in the oven until the gel reaches the edges. TEN: Pull the soap out of the oven. This shift in the kinds of soap molecules in the liquid phase usually creates a faster building, more abundant lather for a smaller amount of work. This means that you can create a smooth, pourable batter that you can play with by adding different colors and designs. Answer: The method you are referring to is called the Cold Process Oven Process soap method. is oven-dry and all water has been removed. Step Ten: Unmold and cut your soap. And it is true that CP soap takes longer; a typical CP soap might need 1-2 days to finish saponifying. Your soaps will not dissolve as easily once most of the water evaporates. The reason for the poor lather is the larger amount of less soluble and less bubbly stearic and palmitic soap molecules in the liquid phase in proportion to the more soluble myristic, lauric, and oleic soaps. Wash the skillet thoroughly with warm water and a touch of dish soap. Pour soap into plastic lined mold. All cold process soap recipes can be oven processed. Don’t want to make your own soap? With CPOP you make your soap as you normally would, but instead of leaving on a counter to set, you place it in the oven for a time. They can form many different shapes -- plates, irregular blocks, or even long spears. Even if your recipe is designed to make a long lasting, mild, lathery bar, you will see the best of these qualities if you give your soap enough time to fully cure. But is the cure truly done at this point? Measure the water loss during this time. During the cure time water dissolves from your soap creating a harder and longer-lasting bar in your shower. I’ve used it quite a lot. This soap had definitely improved over the months. But, giving soap a full 4 to 6 weeks cure time, at minimum, is important. If you were to step into your shower with a brand new bar of soap it would dissolve pretty quickly. At the end of this time, see what your test results show. I want to stress this point -- Even though we tend to think of a bar of soap as a dry solid, it's actually a unique mixture of solid particles and liquids. Homemade Soap: You Don't Have to Wait for a Month for This Soap to Cure. Layering paper towels. Putting your soap in the oven, even at a low temperature, will just cause melting and gooey soap. In a hand-made superfatted soap, the film of liquid surrounding the crystals is a complex alkaline mixture of water, glycerin, and other water soluble chemicals as well as an assortment of dissolved soap molecules. I tried a bar at the sink first and found it lathered dramatically better at 1 year than it did earlier. Reason # 1: Evaporation of the excess water. This bulky shape prevents oleic soap molecules from fitting nicely into the structure of a soap crystal, so the liquid phase in a bar of contains many more oleic soap molecules than what you might think from looking at the soap recipe. When making cold process, oven processed soap, you make soap the cold process way. So how does this relate to how soap changes during cure? Fatty acids with a simple straight shape are lauric, myristic, palmitic, and stearic. There are a few reasons why this step is necessary. While I am making my soap batter I preheat my oven to 170 degrees Fahrenheit. Once the gel stage starts, it will start in the center of your mold and work its way outwards towards the edges. The oven’s heat will evaporate more liquid out of the soap. The third aspect of curing soap is developing soap's crystalline structure. The soap molecules in the liquid phase can be distinctly different than the soap molecules in the crystals. Since the process is not well understood by handcrafted soap makers, I want to talk about this in more detail. Each kind of soap molecule has different chemical properties. Curing Your Handcrafted Soap. There is a similar liquid inside the crystals as well, but for the purpose of this discussion, the liquid in the crystals is not as important as the liquid surrounding the crystals. Lay out the slices on the rack so that they have at least 5 cm (2.0 in) of space on all sides. Try it for yourself, if you have not already, and see what you think. Like the oven’s purpose in CPOP, and the crock pot's purpose in CPHP, the oven facilitates holding the temperature of the soap at or above 160 degrees, speeding up the saponification process. As time goes on, the crystals in a bar of soap will contain more and more of the less-soluble stearic and palmitic soaps and the liquid phase will contain more of the soluble lauric, myristic, and oleic soaps. The glycerin and other dissolved chemicals must be concentrated enough so soap molecules start to salt-out. Therefore, when the test is done we use the following formula to calculate moisture content. Not sure what process is right for you? Use this paste to cover the stains. Place your soaps on the shelf. The soap should be slightly alkaline. It makes a moisturizing yet cleansing bar with tons of lather. Only water evaporation will accomplish that task, so it is a necessary beginning to the curing process. Since HP soap is usually made with more water than CP soap, the drying time for HP soaps actually takes more time, not less, before the soap stabilizes at a reasonably constant weight. Every oil brings its own properties to a bar of soap, and finding the perfect soap recipe is a balance of those things. What does a bar of soap looks like if we could peek inside with a microscope? Here is how I do it. Be sure to read this exceptionally informative article on Curing Soap from the Classic Bells website. This is true even though the young soap is relatively soft and contains a fairly large amount of water. One of the main benefits of this is being able to unmold your soap faster. What could be causing this gradual improvement, even after water evaporation has slowed to a crawl? Since the process is not well understood by handcrafted soap makers, I want to talk about this in more detail. This is the lowest my oven will go, if yours goes lower, you can start at its lowest setting. Prepare the mold by greasing the bottom and sides with olive oil. (This applies to hot process soap too.) Now, soak the oven racks in this solution until you clean the interior of the oven. from North Country Soap Making Library. Commercial soap makers quickly dry their freshly made soap to the desired water content, and then mix the dried soap chips or noodles under pressure using a machine called a "plodder." To track the weight loss due to evaporation, weigh a freshly cut bar of soap right after it is cut and then every few days for a total of 6 to 8 weeks. I know it’s hard for me to wait too! The sodium comes from sodium hydroxide, NaOH. But the migration of insoluble soaps into the crystals and the transfer of more-soluble soaps into the liquid phase is not a fast process. Copyright © 2018 Three Little Goats. As the glycerin and other dissolved chemicals in the liquid phase become sufficiently concentrated, the stearic and palmitic soaps in the liquid phase will form solid soap crystals -- in other words, they want to salt-out. Zeolites. Step Eleven: Perform a Ph test for safety. Fill warm water in a large tub or sink, add a few drops of eco-friendly liquid dish soap to it. Curing = drying. Here is how I do it. After 12-24 hours your soap will be ready to unmold. Ingredients Needed: 13.5oz Distilled Water 9oz Sodium Hydroxide 40.6 oz Olive Oil (pomace grade or extra virgin will both work.) Stearic acid, the longest fatty acid, makes soap that is almost insoluble in water. Curing Soap. I know it’s hard for me to wait too! This post may contain affiliate links, to learn more about them, check out our Disclosure. Gel phase is beneficial to soap because it can intensify colors in the soap. I walk your through the entire process and what to look for in the video below. The concentration of stearic and palmitic soaps in the solid crystals begins when enough water evaporates to trigger the salting-out process. The soap is called CPOP and may have less water and less curing time, but curing time will vary based on the recipe and other factors too. Gel phase is temperature phase. Once the gel stage starts, it will start in the center of your mold and work its way outwards towards the edges. It is different than the others. When you wash with a bar of soap, the wash water penetrates the surface of the bar and mixes with the liquid phase. Paper will burn at 451ºF/233ºC, so there is no danger of paper towels getting hot enough to burn at the drying temperature. The crystals are made of soap molecules fastened together in various 3-dimensional arrangements. Water is necessary to make soap but the extra water in the soap is not needed. As you continue to rub the bar against your skin or washcloth, the abrasion removes soap molecules from the soap crystals as well as from the liquid phase. I turn my oven off and put my soap inside the warm oven and leave it over night. But there is a method called hot-process soap making that speeds up the time it takes the soap to cure. The more important reason to cure your soap is for the water to slowly evaporate over time, which causes the soap to harden. Unless I need the oven for something, I leave the soap in the oven for a couple more hours to start cooling down. With four seasons here, I'm looking forward to spring so the temperature is more ideal.

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